wwilliam47: (Default)
Being An Imagined Dialogue:

Me: Huh. I appear to have become weak.
Peanut Gallery Consisting Of, But Not Limited To, Spouse, Sibling, And Muscles: Well, dumbass, that's what you get for not taking proper rest days.
Me: ...you did tell me so.
PGCOBNLTSSAM: YES.
Me: But having rested, I feel weaker.
PGCOBNLTSSAM: Bull. That's only because you're allowing things to heal enough that you notice differences in pain levels.
Me: ...dammit. Stop being right.
PGCOBNLTSSAM: Stop pushing for four long climbing sessions a week. Especially when at least three are on consecutive days. Then we'll stop being right at you. About this.
Me: But it was stress relief!
PGCOBNLTSSAM: How's that working out for you? Granted, it's not like you've injured yourself. Yet. This time. But the grumbling about diminished capabilities is getting to be more than telepathically audible.
Me: BECAUSE GRANT WRITING OKAY.
PGCOBNLTSSAM: WHICH YOU ARE NOW DONE WITH. STOP BEING STUPID.
Me: Okay.
wwilliam47: (Default)
So SuperComputing happened.

Things of note from the past week, in no particular order:

* There is absolutely nothing wrong with a 14 year publication gap, is there?
* Holy hell am I stronger than I was three years ago. Better able to function under stress, too.
* That said: need to do something about my right knee (balky after a SC worth of walking/carrying) and controlling my stress response (icy calm is great. Icy calm is awesome. Can I have more of that and less of the migraines please?)
* You know you're a systems weenie when a nine hex digit number jumps out at you in a log file.
* If I do not commit personally to doing better than stone knives and bearskins, how can I expect the group to?
* Bouldering walls work much, much better with enough space.
* Bouldering walls work much, much better with experienced setters who take good advantage of that space.
* It doesn't matter where I'm climbing; my brain will not acknowledge any praise from the ground as targeted at me, regardless of the reality. After I'm down, sure, but not while I'm working.
* Field coats and brush cuts are apparently good looks on me, to the point where other guys notice.
* I no longer get to treat SC as a technical conference where I can actually listen to presentations. Meetings colonize all space and time available. Related: I'm going to have to start reading the gorram papers if I want to keep up.
* For a wide variety of reasons, a smartphone is trending towards required rather than optional.
* For a narrow variety of reasons (mostly keyboard-related, some processor-related) a new laptop is also trending towards required.
* There is a not-so-fine line between "display adaptability" and "just fucking wing it". One should perhaps err towards the "display adaptability" side.
wwilliam47: (Default)
In which Our Correspondent learns several things, some of which are useful.

First: yeah, I'm migrating over to DW. Crossposts will continue until morale improves, but everyone who's not-reading me over on LJ can continue not-reading me on DW, and likewise for those who are reading. Posts will be about 99% public and about 95% climbing diaries (with the occasional other stuff mixed in). We are of course all shocked by this.

Second: goals for teh climbing. I have set myself three! They might even happen!

1) Climb a 5.10 cleanly.
2) Become proficient at bouldering v3s and below.
3) ADVENTUR! Bike to Devils' Lake/climb/bike home over a weekend.

Timeline: by end of spring semester for all of these
Requirements: rope, crazy person willing and able to belay, possibly some practice on non-biked Devils' Lake ADVENTURs. Camping gear sufficient for number of crazy people involved in the biking. Food sufficient ditto, cargo capacity ditto ditto.

Now, skills what I have learned over the past week of climbing:

* I can now do hand-foot matches, if careful and if the hold is sufficiently large. This, in particular, makes the slab blue v2 I had been cursing at since the contest a feasible climb. Still haven't gotten the last move and a half (foot switch or awkward layback, either one sucks).
* Slowly getting better at crimping, though it kills my fingers. The pink 5.10a that's a currently active project is all crimps and pinches. The good holds are the ones where there's any degree of incut such that you can wrap your fingers around something and there's enough space for more than half your finger pad. The bad holds are...neither. Literally fingertip crimps of about 1/2" and no angle. One of those had spun from a horizontal crimp (hang down off it) to vertical (hang with your weight to the right of it) which made things even more challenging; with it spun I could still get past it when fresh but only barely.
* Endurance is improving, in that I can do back-to-back days of >90 minutes and not be completely dead.
* Balance and fluidity are definitely getting better.
* Power is getting better though endurance with power is still kind of pants.
* Generally getting better at laybacks by virtue of beating my head against the start of the 5.10b (which is about 15 feet of traverse, all done leaning back at a 45 degree angle). Yes, I can only get 3-4 moves into this one but I'm slowly getting *better* at those 3-4 moves.
wwilliam47: (Default)
Pink v1 is down. Not reliable by any stretch, but one clean ascent.

Current red v3 project is being pissy and annoying; my inspired idea from Wednesday appears to be a total load of bollocks. Have further ideas involving switching my grip so that the current tricky move involves locking my left arm and pushing, rather than sort of pulling/sort of hanging/sort of getting no real leverage. Given that I'm trying to yank my left foot about three-four feet higher than the hold it's on while my body tries to fall to the left, getting more skeleton support there would be *lovely*. If that fails, my ideas start to involve even wackier things like gratuitous heel hooks so I can get my weight off of the damn left wall and stand up to finish the problem. And I'm pretty sure that a gratuitous heel hook would count as making the problem 1-2 grades harder than it needs to be.

Might actually be able to get somewhere on the irksome blue v2 that starts in the cave, now that I have seen ways to un-screw the start. Probably need to ignore all the damn right-handed beta for it though. Trying to support yourself on a right hand pinch on a square block is nontrivial at the best of angles, and this one is at damn near the worst of angles...left hand to the nearby undercling would be a far superior plan, aside from the part where I'd need to rely on my waist-level right hand for power.

Fingers very tired. Right foot is getting quite sore on its outside edge. Apparently putting much of my body weight on the outside two toes on that foot is Not Good. Finally realized that starts suck in no small part because my torso is ridiculously long--there are, no joke, guys who are 6'4" and taller in the gym who don't need to arch/angle their torso as much as I do to get some of these starts at the right angle.

Flist, help me decide which fictional PhD I should appropriate for Halloween: Dr. Banner, or Dr. Jones?
wwilliam47: (Default)
Not a whole lot new today in progress; mostly observations:

* My right hand tends to fly open off pinches (and crimps/slopers) at the slightest provocation. This needs fixing. This is probably my biggest single limitation, and it's not because I can't maintain the grip--it's mental/coordination.
* Blue/black's start is in fact easier when I use all four limbs and four points of support, and crossing feet is easier than switching them twice. If I can get my right hand to behave (see previous) I might knock down a v2 for the first time tomorrow.
* The green v1 that I flashed at the competition and haven't gotten past the start again? I'm pretty sure I'm facing the wrong way. Important note: any time that your first move is "turn hips 180 degrees while levering yourself up and then", consider the possibility that you're starting with your hips going the wrong direction to begin with. This certainly appears true for the blue v2 as well.
* Red 5.8 is still kicking my ass at the new crux (without the foot chip); I need to get some legitimate power out of my left leg while I'm mantling over the ring. Right leg can get up to the first available hold but it's at an angle where I have no power.
* I need to do a somewhat better job of balancing crimpy/pinchy stuff and shoulder power stuff, both to avoid overtaxing my tendons and to retain large-muscle power. My shoulders and legs are kind of weak compared to where they were three weeks ago, even though my grip is stronger.

(*) Assuming that "it" is something within the general range of difficulty that you've demonstrated you can manage, of course.

welp

Oct. 1st, 2012 10:23 pm
wwilliam47: (Default)
Regressions. Regressions everywhere.

White 5.8, missed the square block before the undercling. Red 5.9, getting to the first non-sloper, non-pocket handhold and failing miserably. Orange 5.9, LOLNOPE at the same damn right hand pinch/stand on crappy angle. New yellow v0, shoulders are going NOPE. Green v1? We got your NOPE right here on the start.

Positives: anarchism, still easy. Blue/orange v1, still easy. New yellow 5.7/5.8ish stretchy thing that should be manual belay only, I found a belayer for and got about halfway up before I ran out of reach (n.b. this actually means ran out of balance, but hey). Red v2, I undid a bunch of my regressions. Red/brown v3, at least I haven't regressed and the first move (okay, first two really) is getting slowly more stable. Everything from there to the crux is "experiment with how not to fall off this shit so you can actually perform one of the two crux moves". There's a tricky reach for a decent size not-quite-jug, or a switch feet with one hand of support and then unfold and stretch for a faaaaar foot chip first. Take your pick, bad balance to get hands set, or worse balance to get feet set.

State of body: my right hand grip strength is terrible and my left shoulder is threatening compensation injuries (currently compensation soreness, which is like injury) as a direct consequence. Thursday (or possibly Wednesday depending whether I think that I can climb back-to-back Thursday/Friday) is for visiting my Friendly Local Music Store and getting a damn finger exerciser (guitar style) to fidget with at work. Of course, sore shoulder tends to start fail cascades...may be time to drop a decimal while I work on grip strength and heal. On the bright side, I wind up eating like a maniac to maintain between 215 and 220 and I'm converting a hell of a lot of flab to muscle.
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