Oct. 26th, 2012

wwilliam47: (Default)
Pink v1 is down. Not reliable by any stretch, but one clean ascent.

Current red v3 project is being pissy and annoying; my inspired idea from Wednesday appears to be a total load of bollocks. Have further ideas involving switching my grip so that the current tricky move involves locking my left arm and pushing, rather than sort of pulling/sort of hanging/sort of getting no real leverage. Given that I'm trying to yank my left foot about three-four feet higher than the hold it's on while my body tries to fall to the left, getting more skeleton support there would be *lovely*. If that fails, my ideas start to involve even wackier things like gratuitous heel hooks so I can get my weight off of the damn left wall and stand up to finish the problem. And I'm pretty sure that a gratuitous heel hook would count as making the problem 1-2 grades harder than it needs to be.

Might actually be able to get somewhere on the irksome blue v2 that starts in the cave, now that I have seen ways to un-screw the start. Probably need to ignore all the damn right-handed beta for it though. Trying to support yourself on a right hand pinch on a square block is nontrivial at the best of angles, and this one is at damn near the worst of angles...left hand to the nearby undercling would be a far superior plan, aside from the part where I'd need to rely on my waist-level right hand for power.

Fingers very tired. Right foot is getting quite sore on its outside edge. Apparently putting much of my body weight on the outside two toes on that foot is Not Good. Finally realized that starts suck in no small part because my torso is ridiculously long--there are, no joke, guys who are 6'4" and taller in the gym who don't need to arch/angle their torso as much as I do to get some of these starts at the right angle.

Flist, help me decide which fictional PhD I should appropriate for Halloween: Dr. Banner, or Dr. Jones?
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