Oct. 18th, 2012

wwilliam47: (Default)
Not a whole lot new today in progress; mostly observations:

* My right hand tends to fly open off pinches (and crimps/slopers) at the slightest provocation. This needs fixing. This is probably my biggest single limitation, and it's not because I can't maintain the grip--it's mental/coordination.
* Blue/black's start is in fact easier when I use all four limbs and four points of support, and crossing feet is easier than switching them twice. If I can get my right hand to behave (see previous) I might knock down a v2 for the first time tomorrow.
* The green v1 that I flashed at the competition and haven't gotten past the start again? I'm pretty sure I'm facing the wrong way. Important note: any time that your first move is "turn hips 180 degrees while levering yourself up and then", consider the possibility that you're starting with your hips going the wrong direction to begin with. This certainly appears true for the blue v2 as well.
* Red 5.8 is still kicking my ass at the new crux (without the foot chip); I need to get some legitimate power out of my left leg while I'm mantling over the ring. Right leg can get up to the first available hold but it's at an angle where I have no power.
* I need to do a somewhat better job of balancing crimpy/pinchy stuff and shoulder power stuff, both to avoid overtaxing my tendons and to retain large-muscle power. My shoulders and legs are kind of weak compared to where they were three weeks ago, even though my grip is stronger.

(*) Assuming that "it" is something within the general range of difficulty that you've demonstrated you can manage, of course.
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