Sep. 21st, 2012

wwilliam47: (Default)
...it's actually progress.

White 5.8: 3/3 on getting to the undercling. Shockingly, it works better when you put weight on your leg before you stand up on it. Who knew? 2/3 on RH to the ledge (the one failure was the middle attempt; didn't allow enough recovery time and was twitching the whole way up). 1/1 on matching LH there and upgrading LF to the block (and then utterly failing to stand and get the last hold). Third attempt I tried to get RF up to the block with LH still on undercling/RH on ledge; I am not quite that flexible. Might work if I bumped LF to the chip a foot above where I was. It's still tiring as hell but less than it was. Starting to trust my grip with my right hand/arm properly, as is evident from the increasing symmetry of calluses.

Blue 5.8: still fun, still clean even when tired, will miss it when it's gone. I should get video of it if it's still up Monday evening.

Red 5.9, unofficially "Sloper Hell": was able to make some minor progress on this by virtue of starting from the right-hand pair of foot chips; the start from the left side is much harder. I need to manage a proper hip-in while I've got both hands on marginal holds and high-step with my left leg; the good news is that I'm basically at the crux despite being ~5 moves in. Might well finish this next week if I can get this move; as you ascend it goes from mostly slopers to a mix of crimps and pockets and I'm stuck at the transition.

"Anarchism": able to climb this one cleanly as a cooldown, which is better than I was doing on Monday. Still a gratuitously stretchy route, but still fun. Working on the blue 5.8 and this one (and seeing just how much I high-step certain moves when I watch other people do them) has gotten me a lot more comfortable with stepping above my waist and powering up on that leg.

No real bouldering today; some minor futzing around with starts and confirming that various of my shoulder muscles are simply not up for doing said starts properly right now. Was able to get both feet up for a v2 start that had been eluding me but damn if I can go anywhere from there at the moment...
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