light day today
Sep. 19th, 2012 07:55 pm![[personal profile]](https://www.dreamwidth.org/img/silk/identity/user.png){kind=small}
wwilliam47White 5.8: 2 attempts, both getting to the undercling and getting RH onto the flat rock above the overhang, making this a new best (and almost finishing the route). First attempt, I tried to pull my LH out of the undercling without getting weight off it and re-aggravated my left shoulder. Second attempt, I got some weight off but wasn't solid enough to get LH matching on tgehe flat rock. Needs more chalk. Getting past the "stand up for traverse dammit" point is I think mostly leg geometry and being patient with the weight transfers. It's still going to be a high-effort climb throughout until my arms get stronger though.
Blue/orange v1: one very clean run, made easier by avoiding the foot upgrade that threw me off balance on Monday. Really feeling the weight shift that makes the start work; my hips tilt forward and there's a click-like feeling as my front foot actually starts supporting me. If I keep my feet low for the traverse that makes up the last ~3 moves and I'm not quite as dog tired, this one should remain easy.
Green v1: skipping the noxious RH-dominant start, I was able to get a couple moves into this before I realized I was all pretzeled up and had nowhere to go. However, those initial moves are ones I couldn't do a month ago--swinging my left foot around a corner, getting any purchase at all on some crappy big-pinch holds, etc.
Blue 5.8: clean ascent as a cooldown despite being tired and trying to slip off a bunch of holds. Those slips would have taken me off the wall a couple weeks ago.
Now to finish off giant slug of protein, sleep, and see if I can't do better/be healed on Friday...
Blue/orange v1: one very clean run, made easier by avoiding the foot upgrade that threw me off balance on Monday. Really feeling the weight shift that makes the start work; my hips tilt forward and there's a click-like feeling as my front foot actually starts supporting me. If I keep my feet low for the traverse that makes up the last ~3 moves and I'm not quite as dog tired, this one should remain easy.
Green v1: skipping the noxious RH-dominant start, I was able to get a couple moves into this before I realized I was all pretzeled up and had nowhere to go. However, those initial moves are ones I couldn't do a month ago--swinging my left foot around a corner, getting any purchase at all on some crappy big-pinch holds, etc.
Blue 5.8: clean ascent as a cooldown despite being tired and trying to slip off a bunch of holds. Those slips would have taken me off the wall a couple weeks ago.
Now to finish off giant slug of protein, sleep, and see if I can't do better/be healed on Friday...
