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Nov. 8th, 2012 08:16 pmWell, that could perhaps have been a more exciting and successful session. Fell off *all* the bouldering problems, pretty much.
Quick conclusions from the past month+ of training:
* If I leave top-rope routes out of my rotation, my stamina and efficiency drop like a rock.
* If I leave bouldering out, my power becomes nonexistent, as does my grip strength.
* If I don't work on new challenges, my brain turns off.
* If I don't practice projects until I can't get them wrong, I will go back to getting them wrong.
* If I don't do something automatic and satisfying, my mental outlook will not stay good.
New plan:
* Warm up with an easy top-rope route and an easy bouldering problem every session. Cool down with same.
* Alternate top-rope and bouldering for project work during each session.
* Experiment with placing the projects in increasing, decreasing, and random difficulty order.
I should have enough data to start evaluating how this is working by the end of December--the next two weeks will of course be irregular with SC and Thanksgiving.
Quick conclusions from the past month+ of training:
* If I leave top-rope routes out of my rotation, my stamina and efficiency drop like a rock.
* If I leave bouldering out, my power becomes nonexistent, as does my grip strength.
* If I don't work on new challenges, my brain turns off.
* If I don't practice projects until I can't get them wrong, I will go back to getting them wrong.
* If I don't do something automatic and satisfying, my mental outlook will not stay good.
New plan:
* Warm up with an easy top-rope route and an easy bouldering problem every session. Cool down with same.
* Alternate top-rope and bouldering for project work during each session.
* Experiment with placing the projects in increasing, decreasing, and random difficulty order.
I should have enough data to start evaluating how this is working by the end of December--the next two weeks will of course be irregular with SC and Thanksgiving.
