wwilliam47: (Default)
The Plan, day 1 report:

Warmed up properly, with things that are automatic. Yay! Started attacking projects in semi-random order. Top-rope projects were mostly easy to hard followed by a cementing run on a no-longer project; bouldering was a bit more haphazard with a cementing run, a new success, and a fair bit of bashing my head against a long, tricky project problem.

New success is the other (pain in the ass) green v1, which had been blocked on my ability to actually get the starting move cleanly. Fixed the start--while my left leg need not be on a *hold* it had damn well better be on the *wall*--and the rest was indeed trivial. Leg on wall ensured that my center of mass stayed under the initial crimp until I could get my right arm up and secure, and from there it's just a couple large, deeply textured pinches to the top. This also provides the meta-success of all v0s and v1s currently set being finished.

Last non-cooldown route was a reproduction of the white 5.8 that I got once about six weeks ago. Looks like a lot of the regressions there were mental--I took my time and stayed certain of my weight before making moves, and got up it as cleanly at every single step as I ever have. No fatigue whatsoever, no indecision, and a damn solid lock to make the last move. No awkwardness switching hands on the crimp right at the crux. No pain trying to stand up on the pocket mid-route. No punching myself in the face on the crossover move at the beginning--and no hand pain making it.
wwilliam47: (Default)
Well, that could perhaps have been a more exciting and successful session. Fell off *all* the bouldering problems, pretty much.

Quick conclusions from the past month+ of training:

* If I leave top-rope routes out of my rotation, my stamina and efficiency drop like a rock.
* If I leave bouldering out, my power becomes nonexistent, as does my grip strength.
* If I don't work on new challenges, my brain turns off.
* If I don't practice projects until I can't get them wrong, I will go back to getting them wrong.
* If I don't do something automatic and satisfying, my mental outlook will not stay good.

New plan:

* Warm up with an easy top-rope route and an easy bouldering problem every session. Cool down with same.
* Alternate top-rope and bouldering for project work during each session.
* Experiment with placing the projects in increasing, decreasing, and random difficulty order.

I should have enough data to start evaluating how this is working by the end of December--the next two weeks will of course be irregular with SC and Thanksgiving.
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