wwilliam47: (Default)
Bouldering wall got completely redone for this past Saturday's competition. Both 5.9s are incomplete due to their lower holds getting cannibalized for space for the contest, and the bouldering wall itself is much lower density than it had been (about 2/3 as many problems). Contest kicked my ass--I flashed both v0s (pure slab, highish standing starts, about the easiest v0s I've ever run) and one of the v1s (which was hellaciously hard to do and I haven't repeated) and didn't get through any of the other problems in the allotted attempts (2 per v1, 3 per v2, 4 per v3).

New (I presume v0 but unlabeled) problem that wasn't part of the contest took me a couple tries tonight, mostly due to getting tangled on the last move. Important safety tip: if you find yourself with your left hand and right foot on the wall, turning your back to the wall, and reaching with your right hand for a finishing hold, you're probably doing something wrong. Scary thing is, it almost worked--though I did unpleasant things to my back and arm on the way down, they were mild.

The blue/black v2 from the contest I have now gotten every move of (assuming that I ignore one of the two starting hands, because if you wanted me not to match on the other, you would have made it smaller and *made the other one not total pants*) but have not put together a clean run. Start has some hard jugs/easy crimps in the corner cave, transferring pretty quickly to an undercling and a square block pinch on opposite sides of a 18" wide or so volume. There's some foot switching that's remarkably easy because the hands are so damn good, and then you come up to a crimp, leading with your right hand, that's a side/down pull that my hand wants to slide out of like crazy (even with a ton of chalk). Left hand is still way back and down on the undercling; the only real upgrade available is the actual finish. When I get here from the start, I invariably lose my grip on the crimp before I can work my left free from the undercling to either match on the crimp or cross over to the finish. One time that I skipped directly to this position I was able to match on the crimp and finish with my right (which is the direction that the top hold favors, which I didn't know). So if I can put everything together tomorrow or Wednesday, I'll have a v2 under my belt (finally).

There are two 5.10as that I've taken up as mild projects when the relevant ropes are available. This appears to be approximately the 12th of never, because we are accumulating a large-ish regular crew on each of Monday, Wednesday, and Friday (though interestingly, less overlap than you'd think between days). The good news is that I can now get about 3 moves into each of them rather than flailing at the very start; the bad news is that 5.10as are pretty consistently v1+ moves getting strung together and I am nowhere near consistent enough on those to knock out more than a couple before I screw up and lose balance/grip. My grip is *noticeably* stronger than it was, particularly right-handed, though it's nowhere near as strong as it needs to be for the difficulties I'm targeting.

Now to convince my climbing compatriots that really, truly, friends don't let friends eat crappy Mexican...one should not invoke The Taco Shop around me. I have standards. I particularly have standards for people who *live on South Park St.*
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