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[personal profile] wwilliam47
Silly right-handed people. Also silly short people. That is my story on the day, and I'm sticking to it.

I went full "assume the existence of a can opener" on the brown v2 today, skipping straight to the move that all and sundry swear is the crux. Left hand is on a large but crappy pinch (one of the flat triangular-with-squared-corners style holds), right hand is on a small, poorly oriented, and lower but much more stable pinch. (Flange of rock that lets you turn your hand over and crimp in underneath it; as long as all you need is to stay on the wall it's awesome.) From here, one must simply reach way up with the left hand and catch the lip of a tiny crimp, get enough weight on that hand to upgrade feet safely, and scoot over to the finishing jug. And the feet shouldn't take much upgrading, really.

For some odd reason, the lock right/reach for tricky hold with left is viewed as far, far harder than the insanely folded up start on a pair of tiny handholds.

Got some beta on the brown/red v3 that has been eluding me (come around the corner dynamically and brachiate like mad. I shall have to try Tarzanning it for the lulz, if nothing else.) and made some progress on that; my ultimate problem I think is that I need to have my right hand properly set before I go swinging on it, and I keep pulling just enough with my left to unset my right.

If I assume away the obnoxious start on the green v1, I can now get cleanly to the last move, at which point I stall out due to lack of balance and the imminent threat of breaking my neck. Will try again with proper crash pad.

Blue v1 kicking my ass simply because fingertips are raw after two days of attempts. Tomorrow is a rest day for game anyway; will reattempt Wednesday.

Contest Saturday, noon-5. Local types should feel free to come by Union South and mock me mercilessly. (Yes, yes, why is this unusual?) Someone's got to represent the old, slow, and heavy though. Will pick top-rope stuff back up next week, with stronger arms and grip and better technique. I look forward to mocking past-me for thinking various 5.8s were hard.

In work news, Cray continues to generate a large number of WTFs per debug cycle. Even for systems geeks, there are RULES. And something, somewhere, is breaking some pretty fundamental rules. At least the weirdness is giving us some notion of what could be wrong and how to fix it...
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