oh hai crappy holds. how are you today?
Oct. 4th, 2012 08:28 pm![[personal profile]](https://www.dreamwidth.org/img/silk/identity/user.png){kind=small}
wwilliam47Ayup. As per subject.
I am slowly, *slowly* getting some measure of body control on some holds that are some degree of non-jug (ie cannot wrap first two sets of knuckles around the hold like a handle). Lot of rainbow work on the bouldering wall, just moving from crimps and pinches to other crimps and pinches slowly and carefully and *not* moving a limb that still has 1/4 body weight on it (or more). Additionally (and I had forgotten this), the red v2 has the same problem (getting weight off a jug and onto a far worse handhold) but with my right hand on the jug; this means that a) it'll be easier as I trust my LH grip more, and b) at least when I screw up, I'll be wrenching things in the less sore shoulder. However, the downside is that it's even harder than the places where I've been stuck--I have two good feet, my right hand is side-pulling, and my choices for the left are to side-pull opposite my right (and then get my damn monkey arms to behave such that I can put real weight on that side pull in close quarters) or come not as far over but higher and side-pull the same direction (which makes the weight transfer easier but leaves me pretty screwed on follow-up).
Brown v2 is a basically impossible start for no good reason; even here, there's a slightly better right-hand hold and it kills me. (You would think this would not matter on sub-post-it size holds that allow 2-3 fingers to crimp over their top, and that crappy is crappy. You would be wrong, dear reader.) Many of the v2s that have been annoying me have the problem that there are really, really good (if awkward) starting holds, and then there's a big move to the really, really bad holds. Thus the rainbowing instead. We make our own fun and etudes as needed.
Orange v3 #1 has a move I am working on as part of this series of "work the crappy holds dammit": pair of crimps with right hand coming up to a pocket, followed by standing up, getting feet upgraded, and side-pulling the hell out of that pocket. I will, at present, be happy with pocket & stand stably. I can, at present, get to/in the pocket, start standing, and then fall comically.
Green v1, if I skip the annoying-ass start, has some interesting pinches with interesting footwork as its central section before finishing on an undercling; I figure working on those pinches is a noble and useful thing at this juncture as well.
Left shoulder: not dead. Feels pretty good, did not injure further AFAIK. Fingernails mangled and re-trimmed. Fingertips feel like I ran a cheese grater over some of them. Even if I leave my harness home to keep me out of trouble, I should bring my own chalk...wall chalk no es bueno.
I am slowly, *slowly* getting some measure of body control on some holds that are some degree of non-jug (ie cannot wrap first two sets of knuckles around the hold like a handle). Lot of rainbow work on the bouldering wall, just moving from crimps and pinches to other crimps and pinches slowly and carefully and *not* moving a limb that still has 1/4 body weight on it (or more). Additionally (and I had forgotten this), the red v2 has the same problem (getting weight off a jug and onto a far worse handhold) but with my right hand on the jug; this means that a) it'll be easier as I trust my LH grip more, and b) at least when I screw up, I'll be wrenching things in the less sore shoulder. However, the downside is that it's even harder than the places where I've been stuck--I have two good feet, my right hand is side-pulling, and my choices for the left are to side-pull opposite my right (and then get my damn monkey arms to behave such that I can put real weight on that side pull in close quarters) or come not as far over but higher and side-pull the same direction (which makes the weight transfer easier but leaves me pretty screwed on follow-up).
Brown v2 is a basically impossible start for no good reason; even here, there's a slightly better right-hand hold and it kills me. (You would think this would not matter on sub-post-it size holds that allow 2-3 fingers to crimp over their top, and that crappy is crappy. You would be wrong, dear reader.) Many of the v2s that have been annoying me have the problem that there are really, really good (if awkward) starting holds, and then there's a big move to the really, really bad holds. Thus the rainbowing instead. We make our own fun and etudes as needed.
Orange v3 #1 has a move I am working on as part of this series of "work the crappy holds dammit": pair of crimps with right hand coming up to a pocket, followed by standing up, getting feet upgraded, and side-pulling the hell out of that pocket. I will, at present, be happy with pocket & stand stably. I can, at present, get to/in the pocket, start standing, and then fall comically.
Green v1, if I skip the annoying-ass start, has some interesting pinches with interesting footwork as its central section before finishing on an undercling; I figure working on those pinches is a noble and useful thing at this juncture as well.
Left shoulder: not dead. Feels pretty good, did not injure further AFAIK. Fingernails mangled and re-trimmed. Fingertips feel like I ran a cheese grater over some of them. Even if I leave my harness home to keep me out of trouble, I should bring my own chalk...wall chalk no es bueno.
