Oct. 1st, 2012 10:23 pm
wwilliam47: (Default)
[personal profile] wwilliam47
Regressions. Regressions everywhere.

White 5.8, missed the square block before the undercling. Red 5.9, getting to the first non-sloper, non-pocket handhold and failing miserably. Orange 5.9, LOLNOPE at the same damn right hand pinch/stand on crappy angle. New yellow v0, shoulders are going NOPE. Green v1? We got your NOPE right here on the start.

Positives: anarchism, still easy. Blue/orange v1, still easy. New yellow 5.7/5.8ish stretchy thing that should be manual belay only, I found a belayer for and got about halfway up before I ran out of reach (n.b. this actually means ran out of balance, but hey). Red v2, I undid a bunch of my regressions. Red/brown v3, at least I haven't regressed and the first move (okay, first two really) is getting slowly more stable. Everything from there to the crux is "experiment with how not to fall off this shit so you can actually perform one of the two crux moves". There's a tricky reach for a decent size not-quite-jug, or a switch feet with one hand of support and then unfold and stretch for a faaaaar foot chip first. Take your pick, bad balance to get hands set, or worse balance to get feet set.

State of body: my right hand grip strength is terrible and my left shoulder is threatening compensation injuries (currently compensation soreness, which is like injury) as a direct consequence. Thursday (or possibly Wednesday depending whether I think that I can climb back-to-back Thursday/Friday) is for visiting my Friendly Local Music Store and getting a damn finger exerciser (guitar style) to fidget with at work. Of course, sore shoulder tends to start fail cascades...may be time to drop a decimal while I work on grip strength and heal. On the bright side, I wind up eating like a maniac to maintain between 215 and 220 and I'm converting a hell of a lot of flab to muscle.
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