Oct. 29th, 2012

wwilliam47: (Default)
Red v3 is down. For those keeping score at home, that's a jump of two bouldering grades in under two weeks. That one truly is a matter of locking one arm, getting the other onto the (only moderately stretchy at that point) hemisphere, palming a volleyball equivalent, and inching your way vertical enough to finish the problem (ideally with your legs; a fellow climber apparently tried to lift with his arms. Bad idea.) Got to the finish hold three times IIRC, grabbed it twice, and was solid enough to match on it only the once.

Not much else to report. White 5.8 is still regressed a bit but it's coming back. The 5.10s (which I am adopting as projects in lieu of having actual 5.9s to work on) are still kicking my ass after 2-3 moves, but eventually that will become 4-5 moves, etc etc. Blue/black v2 and pink v1 are becoming damn near automatic, as is the green v1 that I can actually start. Low crimpy starts are still going to be the death of me. Stamina is doing pretty well for amount of climbing in a session, but is terrible for climbing a given route. Need more top-rope and less bouldering in my rotation if I'm going to fix that, but given the state of the top-rope routes at the moment and the level of crowding, that's a dubious proposition.

Oh, and I've run through a personal chalk bag in the last two months, pretty much. Will definitely need to sneak a refill in before I head out to SLC in two weeks.
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