Oct. 24th, 2012

wwilliam47: (Default)
I will, for the record, laugh my ass off if I manage to get a v3 problem completed before I manage my second v2 (or clean the wall of v1s). And this is a very real possibility.

Today was another object lesson in the value of lifting with legs and using arms as levers, rather than the reverse. Blue/black v2 is getting solid but is far from automatic still; the match on the next-to-last crimp is still tricky just because of the right hand grip strength it takes, and the move to the undercling is a tricky one because if my right foot is not exactly where it needs to be (and not on a hold, mind) it goes from a stable static move to a wildly swinging dynamic one. (Also note that the hold is not well enough anchored for it to be *safe* for me to put most of my weight on it dynamically. Well, not safe for the hold's integrity; I'd just fall on my butt and roll.)

Pink v1 is currently at the "done all the pieces, need to put it together" point that blue/black was at last Friday, which is a good sign for knocking it off. This is another data point suggesting that foot switches on low-rated problems are a sign you're doing something wrong; there is a move towards the end which is far, far easier (though still tricky) with my left foot on a particular chip/left hip against wall than right foot on the same chip/left hip against wall. If I get my right foot balanced right for that move, I'll finish it trivially. The key to progress thus far has been to be shameless about matching hands and letting my left arm do some of the lever arm stuff where I could use either arm (or both) but can't afford to either bend my arm or lose my grip.

Red v3 (slab) (not to be confused with red v3, overhang): the trick to this one is to recognize that "all four limbs off the ground" as a start condition is a long, long way from "all four limbs on starting holds". The start as she is actually done is leaning forward, hands splayed out front and back with your left (front) hand really low and your right on a waist high hold, left foot on foot chip. Rather than getting your right foot up statically from there (or targeting a hold immediately), you launch up off your left leg/right hand to a handhold high on the left wall and either rest your right foot against a random piece of wall or bring it up to the hold your left hand just left. From there, it's easy to get to the actual crux(es); the top of the route has three acceptable but not great handholds, the outer two of which are about six feet apart and the middle one of which is a bit lower and really quite terrible if you're not getting downward force on it. (Really, all of them are.) The finish, of course, is 2 feet above the highest of the holds. I've got ideas for fiddling feet such that I can ignore the big wingspan pose, get onto the right-hand set of holds entirely (which centers me underneath the finish), and get up to the end without getting in trouble.

Green v1 (previously finished): made sure to start this one with pure legs, the way I did at the contest, and it was a cakewalk from there. (And by a cakewalk, I mean slow and finicky for a couple of the last moves, but every hold/every move was something solid where I just needed to not make mistakes.)

Blue v2 (slab): all the hate in the world; this problem is both heavily right-handed and biased towards people around 5'10". I am, of course, neither of these. You start with your hands matched on a below-waist-level hold and your feet on a couple of chips. The next reasonable hands are at head height or a bit below for me; one is a really sketchy crimp if you can get your weight 45 degrees down and left, and one is a pretty good small pinch/overgrown foot chip that prefers that your weight be down or right but affords a good bit more latitude in that range. If you start facing left and reach with your right hand, it's some very tricky weight shifting to get solid enough on the crimp that your left hand can come up to the pinch. Conversely, if you start square on or facing right, you need to stand up using your right arm for most of your arm power so that you're free to reach with your left. I have ideas after today but I'll need to come back to it when my toes and fingers aren't heading for active rebellion.
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