Oct. 5th, 2012

wwilliam47: (Default)
Progress is mostly in the form of not injuring myself further. Much. Right shoulder got tweaked in the same way that my left has been, but to a much lesser extent. That said, REPORT!

Blue v1: finally figured out how to start this SOB--I was facing the wrong way and using the wrong foot, and despite the apparent symmetry of the start, this really, really matters. Start matched on a round bad jug/good crimp sort of deal, *right* foot back-stepping on a chip, left foot dangling (not the reverse). Route goes off to the right and up. Right hand up to a crimp that's about 3' over from the start, left matches, lean back into it and get left foot up to the starting handhold. Left hand will need to come another foot+ past the crimp you're matched on to a crimp/pinch (the angles are no good for right hand there), and one foot will need to come to a solid blocky hold (small pinch/good chip sort of thing) that's about 2 feet underneath the crimp, maybe less. After you get that, somehow your body needs to pivot so that you have a prayer of matching feet, or you need to drop down with your arms still crossed and re-set feet and come up. Still working on that, but afterwards, right hand crosses to a nice jug, upgrade feet on a series of chips, and straight up to the finish.

Red v2: still no joy on the last move. All betas I have found would work better if I had less monkey-ish arms, but it is tremendously hard to both flatten into an overhang *and* get my weight onto a too-short side pull; shortening up my legs/arms to get the side pull supporting me brings me off the wall far enough that when I move my right hand I'll topple back. Going to try some really unorthodox stuff here Monday; it can't be any worse than what I've been failing to do.

Orange v3: getting a bit more secure on the crimp/crimp to crimp/pocket move to the point where I can sort of stand on the starting handhold after doing it. Not ideal though.

Green v1: start move might actually avoid eluding me one of these days. Could get cleanly off the ground and just missed the left hand first move, though, so that's something.

Yellow v2: actually got all four limbs off the ground, for a wonder. First real move is still pissy (hand-foot match unfolding 4 feet of space? really?) but I might get somewhere now.

Brown v2: don't even talk to me about this one. I am so very tired of all my weight concentrating on my left hand, and the fact that it's on the worst hold of all *four* limbs does jack to alleviate this. Sad, sad panda.

Automatic problems are still automatic. Jug hauls out of an overhang are still interested in shredding my shoulders. Jug hauls on slab are still fine. There would be film at 11 but that would require effort (and a lack of shame that I have not *quite* reached. Posting miserable failures in text is somehow less shameful than posting them on youtube.) Fridays are still crowded as hell.

...and now I get to find out how much Cray ruins my weekend.
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