Sep. 28th, 2012

wwilliam47: (Default)
Through reading, learn we to speak English good!

Now that there is (finally) no longer a single-staffer bottleneck on belay testing, I have tested and passed; this opens up the new 5.8ish belay-only route. Also: no stupid kinesthetic-failure injuries today.

Both the 5.9s are still being bitchy at the same points; the red at least has enough moves before I fail that I'm working on something real. The orange is pretty much an exercise in frustration. Got a low 5.8 and 5.7 in for warmup/cooldown respectively.

Bouldering, I'm at least making some progress at. Various of the guys are starting to be useful teachers, and I spent the day scattering my time across various pieces of v0 through v3 problems. Highlights:

Green v1 is nominally startable, though it's a Feat Of Strength(tm) to get up for that first move. Even with good starting technique, my right arm has to take a hell of a lot of weight and it leaves me drained and out of position for the next move.

Red/brown v3: haven't written about this one for obvious reasons. Start is a low horizontal stretch with nice jugs for your hands and well-centered foot chips. It's heading into the corner, folding around with a big reach with arms, legs, or both, coming out from under the overhang, and up to the top. Thus far, I've got the start and first two moves: LH coming all the way across my body, catching a jug, and getting my hips turned so I can put weight on that hold, followed by RF up to a chip. At that point LH/RF are around the corner from RH (if it's still on) and LF; there are a variety of approaches and I've not gotten any to work yet.

Orange v3: once I learned I was approaching it entirely wrong (the crimps that only work from certain angles dictate a sideways start, not a straight-on one) I think I see that this is doable in principle. Any individual move is going to be hella tough at present, which makes it a good exercise at least.

Yellow v2: there are moves in the middle of this that are good exercises, and I might even be able to work out the start given time and a lot more shoulder strength. Fun with opposing side pulls...

Blue/orange v1: still automatic even when tired & sore.

I reckon that if I focus on bouldering for a bit, the top-roping will improve a lot when I go back to it...
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