Sep. 26th, 2012

wwilliam47: (Default)
...may redeem your winning tickets.

Progress on the red 5.9, which included whacking my left kneecap by bringing my leg up with no respect to a hold that was in the way. Significant bruising. But, each of the two attempts there yielded +1 or +2 moves. I think it's another +2-4 until I'm comparatively home free; it's already getting less pissy but the balance/contortions are tricky through here.

Also, progress on the orange 5.9, after a fashion. I had been stuck forever going from waist-high jug LH, small shoulder-high pinch RH, solid RF, sloping slippery POS LF to standing on LF and bringing LH up to a flat, large, sorta-crimpy sorta-slopy thing. RH grip wasn't up to it and I'd wrench my shoulder as I came off the wall. RH grip is now up to that move but I can't do much with it--RF needs to come up and through to the jug before either LH or LF becomes useless.

Other than that, Anarchism for fun, white 5.8 (failing last move, but was fatigued and hurt at that point) for cementing skill (and it's getting easier/more comfortable the rest of the way up), v0s for fun, mild improvment on having a prayer of starting the green v1, demonstration of proper start on orange/blue v1 for some noobs.

Ibuprofen is a godsend; starting to feel human. In the department of "old man yells at trees", I would like to note for the record that the frelling bike lanes are directional, just like the rest of the gorram street. I am prepared to start enforcing this with violence if necessary...
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