Sep. 25th, 2012

wwilliam47: (Default)
Two reports for the price of one, because I am a man who does many strange and wondrous things, dear reader. Precious few of them are useful. I at least hope that some of them are funny.

Monday: two ill-fated attempts at white 5.8. Blue 5.8 and green 5.10 came down for a new 5.10-5.11 something, putting a GIANT BLOODY ROCK in the middle of where my left foot should by rights be able to flag on the white 5.8. Also preventing video of the blue 5.8.

Attempt #1: about 4-5 moves in, I punch myself in the nose. Now, you may ask yourself: "How does one punch oneself in the nose while climbing?" I'll tell you: a crossover move starting mid-chest and ending slightly overhead, a poor kinesthetic sense, and a face that's too close to the wall this time. How did my face get too close to the wall? I'll tell you: I don't know. I sincerely hope this does not become a tradition.

Attempt #2: after the nosebleed from punching myself in the damn nose stops, a pretty solid climb up to matched on the penultimate ledge, feet where they need to be for the last move, and just needing to stand up. I come at this too square-on, screw up the mantle, generally take the move too tentatively, and come back down having cursed the new big honking rock for getting in my way. At the bottom, I realize that yes, actually, I did concuss myself some, thanks for asking, and call it a day.

Tuesday: 3 shots at the white 5.8; first two entirely in line with Monday attempt #2. Third attempt, I rotate just a bit to the right so that I can get some side force on the ledge and make the reach a bit easier without running my right foot into the overhang. (Also, side benefit of getting my left leg out into space and not running into giant rock.) Victory. Some progress on the red 5.9 followed (I think n+1 or n+2 on the moves, and I'm getting near the point where all the 5.9 moves are over and the rest of the route is 5.8ish). Killed the blue/orange v1. Verified that a) I can do most of the rest of the green v1 if I take a mulligan on the damn righty-biased start, b) I could start it just fine if it were in the other direction, and c) I can get off the ground with my hands left-over-right rather than right-over-left on the initial spur, but can't get up to the next hold yet. Verified that v2s are not worth serious work. Killed Anarchism as a cooldown (it got easier. How did this happen?) and called it a day.

Lessons/data: a nontrivial route appears to be on the order of 3 weeks from initial fumbling attempts to first completion, and another 2 weeks to cement things, given my present level of skill/rate of learning. Rest days (including biking less) are important; between knocking myself silly last night and a 24-hour bug last Thursday, I haven't ridden a full round-trip commute since last Wednesday, and the rest has clearly paid off. Watching my feet is bloody important when I'm trying to do anything tricky; I am well past the point where "don't look down" is useful advice.
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