Sep. 17th, 2012

wwilliam47: (Default)
Today's lesson: even on Fridays with two recovery days after, I should not try to keep up with the twentysomethings for duration/difficulty of workout. Even if they're fun people to hang out and talk shop with. *Especially* if they're fun people to talk shop with. Leads to ignoring pain signals, which I'm good enough at already.

The good:

Knitting (5.7/5.8): finished, by virtue of watching where the hell I put my feet for the last move. Fun route, satisfying big moves, with one that feels a bit sloppy still and needs improvement.

New yellow v0 (replacing Colonial): on-sighted, first person in the gym to solve it (though that's strictly a matter of opportunity). More overhung, slightly worse holds, about as diagonal, but more scope for actually using feet makes this a much easier problem for me.

The meh:

Blue/orange v1: First move was not a fluke but is not 100% either (2/3). Last move may have been a fluke, or I may just have been too tired today.

Red v2: Still stuck on last move. I don't think I like A's beta on this one but I have Nefarious Ideas(tm) that may work when my shoulders are not filing official protests with the governing bodies of every sport known to man and some that they invented for this purpose.

Orange 5.9 (unnamed): still an embryonic project, still trying to kill my shoulders, still needs to come out of the rotation until I actually finish the projects I'm actually making progress on. First 2-3 moves are pretty easy and then I come off the wall hard...

The bad:

Anarchism 5.8: two failures on what was a solid route; one at the very beginning and one on the last move. Both due to fatigue.

White 5.8: something in the 0/3 or 0/4 department on standing up to grab the crimp before the undercling. Shoulders were weak and my RH grip on the relevant knob was pathetic (and technically wrong to boot, I'm pretty sure). This route tires me out quickly on the way up to the crux still. Need more sleep and more practice so I'm not using maximum effort just to do the first ~15 feet.
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