Sep. 15th, 2012

wwilliam47: (Default)
In the spirit of actually keeping records so that I quit griping about lack of progress, notes on climbing progress!

Overview: have been climbing since beginning of May; about the first two months of that were serious shoulder rehab. Currently climbing somewhere in the 5.7-5.8 range on my Friendly Hyper-local Wall, and somewhere in the V0-V2 range on bouldering problems depending on the specific problem. Current workout routes, project routes, etc are as follows:

Yellow 5.7/5.8, "Anarchism" (rating was bumped up, I suspect inappropriately). Stretchy climb on a natural face with a bunch of jugs bolted on. First ascent was last Monday, and it has gone from dicey to pretty solid even when dog-tired. There are a couple of high steps that are still a pain and a couple places where I need to augment the placed holds with the natural face, but this is pretty comfortable. Clean ascent today.

Blue 5.8, unnamed. Probably the easiest route in this gym that rewards good technique; there's lots of approaches to it depending on your size/reach/balance. Tricky bits are a high-step (in my beta) that not everyone has the leverage for, a pocket/tiny pinch combo to get up to a big diamond-shaped jug, and then the crux: getting out from under an overhang. None of the holds involved are bad, strictly speaking, but it takes some leg strength and muscle memory in order to get through the crux before you tire out. First ascent some weeks ago, clean ascent today.

Red 5.7/5.8, "Knitting" (another that got its rating bumped). Stretchy, slab, holds tend to be big square knobs for the first part. Big traverse step that I like to take from a bit of a lay-back, catch a ring with your right hand, LH/LF match, mantle off the ring to next foothold/handhold. Left hand crimping over the top, right comes up to side pull the side pocket of the same hold, right foot to ring, right hand sneaks up to next hold. Match hands, secure left hand, right up to penultimate hold, big bloody step with your left to where your hands were crimping, reach up for the top hold while flagging/smearing right and pray that you don't fall off as you come above the hold your RH has. Have not gotten the last move. Did not attempt.

White 5.8, unnamed. Balance-y and stretchy until you get to the overhang and then WTF. Lots of weight shifting drill on the way up. Crux starts with catching a crimp (good crimp but crimp) with your left hand, upgrading both feet (to a somewhat folded position), crossing your right hand over to get an undercling, upgrading feet some more, and somehow standing up from there to reach about 2 feet(?) over the edge of the overhang that the undercling is mounted under. As near as I can tell, that means "lift entire body with bicep curls". Wish me luck. Had not gotten to the crimp at the start of the crux without falling before today, so this is progress. Was able to catch that crimp reliably (3/3) and the undercling (2/3) but no farther.

Yellow v0, "Colonial". Good holds throughout; the hard parts are a proper sitting (or semi-sitting) start that doesn't skip the first move and remembering to cross over as you work diagonally up a not-quite-pure campus (there are legs but you increasingly don't get to use them). Had mastered everything but the start for some time; got the start (1/1) today.

Blue/orange v1, unlabeled. Crux of this one is actually the start and once I got the first externally visible move it was trivial. Sitting side-on to the wall, LH goes in a pocket, RF on a chip, RH on a knob. Settle weight on those points, take LF up to chip in front of LH. Shift weight from hands/RF to feet/LH, maintaining enough sideways force with LH to stay on the chips. Reach up for the next hold and don't fall off. Once you've done that, the rest is a cakewalk at my height/strength. (1/1, first solution).

Red v2, don't recall the name. The only hard part about this is the finish--you've got one reasonable foothold, one foothold that will take your body seriously diagonal, a jug that you're side-pulling towards the final hold that you need to let go of, and a couple of crappy handholds you need to catch so you can pull up to the finish (one of which I can trivially reach for without leaving the jug). Have gotten useful beta, will try again, something like 0/4 on brute forcing the finish today.

...other routes to be added (a couple 5.9s, another v1) as they move from "how do I shot web?" to actual projects that are making progress. Focus right now is on the damn white 5.8 and Knitting, and getting solid on the new bits of progress.
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