wwilliam47: (Default)
[personal profile] wwilliam47
So here's the thing: be careful what you ask for. You might well get it.

"Knitting", the red 5.7-cum-5.8, has been reset with different holds for the bottom half of the route and the end hold of the crux move, and has become a 5.9, "V for vendetta". It also lost yet another supporting hold at the crux. What this means: the first 10-15 feet have gone from a simple ladder climb to a collection of tough crimps (and really, what is it with the setters right now and EVERYTHING CRIMPY?) and the ledge that starts the crux sequence going from one of the harder holds of that portion to by far the easiest. The crux must stay diagonal rather than unfolding to traverse and get vertical, and the hold above the ring that you finish the mantle onto is much, much worse. Have not sent yet.

"Squirrel" regressed due to massive footwork!fail. Have acquired some inspiration for how I might wish to attack it; might be able to enter the crux sequence if I can transform theory into practice. Sadly will not be able to try bicycling the actual crux move if I enter along this path.

Pink 5.10a has gotten halfway, which is to say I have gotten a secure hand on the 5th hold of 10. That doesn't mean my feet are anywhere I can actually advance from; the blessing and curse of a "natural feet" route is that you can fix anything if you know where to go, but there are so very many blind alleys. It's getting more solid for the first few moves, though, and one of my limiting factors is now my right hand's fingertips and their ability to keep pinching hold #4. Need calluses. Good news, though: having stopped to observe my own technique, I can confirm that I reflexively open-hand all the crimps on this route. So there's some chance that, despite the general grumpiness of my fingers, I am not working in the short term on destroying my tendons. Which is nice. I'll leave that for the young and stupid.

Pink/blue 5.10, "Bravery Jerk", I am going to start working on as an intro to crack climbing. I can't do a damn thing with this route because I keep forgetting what I'm doing and trying to treat the crack like it's a regular hold, rather than something to wedge body parts into and expand maximally. I have big damn hands. I can do this if I practice. Very unnatural approach compared to all other types of climbing though. May decide to say screw the route, climb the crack with both sides of body--the crack portion is set with left side in crack/right side on normal 5.10 holds, which is all kinds of awkward given that the holds would be a challenge even if I weren't learning a new skill with my nominally smarter side.

General bouldering: has regressed. Some is undoubtedly lack of focus. Some is that I'm not picking up bouldering problems until I've already spent 30-45 minutes working on top-rope projects. Should probably get a near-pure bouldering session in for either tomorrow or Friday's workout. Should definitely put some serious focus on bouldering in SLC (if nothing else because that means I don't need a partner as badly).
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